Prague

On the road again and the momentary jitters of our 'left hand driver' quickly evaporate on the German Autobahn. Goodness it's crazy! It's amazing you don't see an accident at every on ramp. The Germans certainly have respect for merging and the 'fast lane' and even anticipate a merge at the on ramp so move to the fast lane....GENIUS. Perhaps it's his maternal German gene pool or just simply that he's male, but either way Graeme has fully adapted to the European way.

Much of our early adult years were spent in Sydney in the company of our dear friend Fui. She left Australia to study French in France (as you do) 20 years ago but never returned. Since we moved to WA and she occasionally visits her Sydney family, we have had only a few moments together over the past two decades. We were all really looking forward to our potential time with her and her little French family in Paris. However, it was not to be. The very week we planned to be in Paris, they were all flying back to Sydney to see Gran and Grandad! What are the odds of that? So, with disappointment aside, darling Fui took the weekend off, left JF, Elouise and Vadim to fend for themselves, and flew to find us in Prague.

Well, actually, we had to find her...with the help of our lovely new Airbnb host and a tram trip! We finally embraced after 7or8 years! How the years melt away and what a treat to share Prague with her.

Our accomodation at Malostranská was in such a great spot. Being so close the Charles Bridge, Prague Castle and the Jewish Quarter, we were able to leave the car in it's perfect street parking spot  right out the front. It was one of those George Costanza moments, "That's it Jerry, I'm not moving the car!"

The city really is very beautiful, the epitome of historic old town architecture. However, I was surprised and quite disappointed with the amount of graffiti around the place...on old walls, new sign posts, (love lock) bridges. I admit, I do have a 'Graffiti Radar' regardless of the country, city or suburb. Yet, I foolishly thought the European teens (and lovers) were much more respectful than ours. I lamented I didn't have any City of Vincent graffiti wipes...or an angle grinder!

 

Classically beautiful, non-graffiti-ed old town architecture

Walking the cobblestones with mandatory icecream

Prague's historic district is made up of 'The Old Town' and the 'Malá Strana', the REALLY old town. They both hug the Vltava River which winds its way through central Europe. Many Prague bridges straddle this waterway, some being more frequented than others.

 A bookend of Charles Bridge

Charles Bridge is a pedestrian only zone, filled with exhibiting artists of differing giftedness, performing musicians and prostrate beggars, literally hat in hand and usually with a big eyed dog. One cognitively knows the homeless and destitute are everywhere but when you usually live in a suburban bubble of happiness as most of us do, it's a difficult thing to witness and an even more difficult thing to quantify with ones children...particularly when you are spending a bucket load of money on a six week European vacation with them.

Charles Bridge - One little monkey "Seeing" no evil

If only Fui could work out the focus

 

Charles Bridge attendees-so obviously dog lovers

The Astronomical clock certainly manages to draw the crowd. You see the selfie sticks raised in anticipation at least 15mins before the hour! You wouldn't want to miss the digital moment now would you? I was intrigued by the clock proper but the tolling on the hour didn't really spin my wheels and left all the Selfie Stickers hanging, expecting more...LOL

For those who choose to notice, however, the clock itself is very beautiful. Intricate yet on a grand scale. Alas the reading of the multiple faces eludes me. I believe they tell the time, date, month and phases of the moon but as yet I don't know how...so much to learn, so little time. I must ask my dad...he knows all things clockwork.

 

 We quickly took advantage of the newly created space by the departing bride and groom...remind me to pack my wedding dress for our next European Summer vacation. It's amazing how much space people give you!

Fui and Me like it was yesterday (plus 20 years) - Prague Castle

St Vitus Cathedral

Whilst thinking of Dad, I am reminded of his comment he always makes during your typical chase scene of action films, "Why do they always go UP?" Well Pops, why does anyone? and why do we!!! On visiting Prague Castle the following day, the 287 steps up the narrow spiral staircase of the cathedral's bell tower was certainly a physical feat.

However, there is always something to be learned, even when faced with breathlessness. Being in tight confines with an eleven year old boy, always keen to share his knowledge, made us a captive audience. Apparently, spiral staircases of sword wielding times were always built skyward in a clockwise direction. "Why?" I hear you ask. To favor the defending sword wielding knight (always right handed) of course! The possible notion of a left handed or ambidextrous knight (as Daniel is when it comes to a cricket bat) didn't phase Patrick..."Well, you'd be of great value as an attacker during a siege!"

Glass encased clock mechanism - unexplained!

The clockwork mechanism in the heart (and heights!) of the bell tower was quite impressive. There was all manner of cogs and spindles, ropes and pendulum. Alas, it became clear to us that the Castle needs to educate it's staff. This was not the only point of our excursion which had us leave with unanswered questions. Not happy Jan!

Prague's ancient castle and fortress are extensive and sit very high on the hill. There's a changing of the guards every hour, multiple palaces, great views and excellent strudel on offer. Of course we had pre-booked ticket access to most parts of the castle. This could be used over multiple days (much to Daniel's disappointment and groaning!) but, as Patrick and I discovered on the second days visit, doesn't permit you back into the same building twice. Luckily we were met by a maternal figure who loved the idea of turning a blind eye to a young man who wanted to see the innards of a Gothic Cathedral, not once but twice!

This cathedral houses 450 year old Zikmund, the biggest bell in Europe which is suspended 53m high from humble cow hide. It had an enormous 'clacker' (this makes me giggle) which broke during celebratory bell ringing in 2002. According to ancient legend, this was an omen to warn of upcoming disaster. Not 3 months later, Prague's greatest flood for 500 years hit sending the old country into chaos. The riverbanks broke, the mud sludged and the ground floor of every shopfront and home was devastated. Fortunately Zigmund was restored with it's clacker :) in place again and ring on and on once more.

Amazingly, the Charles Bridge survived without major incident, even though skeptics of the day (14th century) said it would never last. Who ever said new ideas were inferior?

Morning Tea sorted

The militant but semi relaxed changing of the guard

St Vitus tiles and shadows

Up the bell tower of St Vitus

Spitting off Charles Bridge...as boys do

Beautiful Summer skies over Charles Bridge

The only privately owned palace in the Prague Castle complex is the Lobkowicz Palace, owned by the family of the same name for for many generations. It has been confiscated twice and regained twice, due to war and peace (I think that would be a good title for a book!). This palace was quite interesting and definitely work a visit, even though, being privately owned, it cost extra for entry. There were room upon room filled with portraits of past generations and, if only I didn't have 3 males awaiting my exit, I would have spent much more than the brief, stolen hour.

This desire to spend further money and time on this solo expedition (at the expense of my accompanying males) was to view a portrait I had never seen but instantly recognised on a Castle Giftshop postcard. Let me explain...As a sweet and accommodating 7 year old, my elder sister had me pose as 'Dona Margarita Teresa' who was portrayed by artist Diego Velázquez in many a Baroque oil painting. It get the desired effect, Judy stuffed my little legs into the middle of a vinyl beanbag (and I'm sure it was summer), draped me in skirts and various fabrics and had me sit still and look contemplative. I probably looked more forlorn than anything else but I was thankful her media of choice was photography and not oil painting like Diego. So I am sending her a postcard of the original for old times sake. Ah, sisters.




The monument celebrating American Liberation from Nazi occupation during WWII sits in the little park across from our accommodation- the creamy yellow corner apartment on the ground floor. Of course, our boys being boys see a green space and want to run and climb and kick and...fine, but our one limitation was to not disrespect the monument. Alas, this is where the road less traveled just feels like too much work. Because every other man (and probably his dog if given half a lifted leg chance) was doing just that! Climbing up, sliding down...It took all my strength to look the other way and zip my trap.

Respecting the monument!

Ah brothers - Heading home across the park

Location: Bavaria, Germany