Bertusgaden and Bavarian Brooks

Another very warm day had us up in the mountains of Bavaria (where we were staying) in Bad Richenhall, a German town just across the border from Salzburg Austria, where the CSHS music troop were based. We had decided a change in the countryside would work in our favour after being in the towns and cities this past week. 

Our new accommodation and view!

Coming from a country, which is also a continent, I find the whole ‘cross into another county 20mins drive away’ a little disconcerting. I do appreciate the effort the Europeans have made in simplifying the currency though.  Much easier thank you. What is funny though is how similar people are in their differences. As Australians we love our country and then our State followed promptly by which side of the river we live. Certainly it is true of Sandgropers, aside from a holiday destination, if it’s further than 20mins away, it’s probably too far to bother. This seems true of our European experience (currently Bavarian) in mindset. Each believes their side of the mountain or valley offers the very best to us, it’s visitor, and why did we even bother with the rest. 

Breath holding in tunnels nearly sent Daniel blue

Our first tourist stop was Eagles Nest in the early 1930’s (during his leadership pre-war). It was to be his casual residence where the locals came to see their political leader in an informal setting, allowing him to become known for his love of children and animals. This quickly made him a popular and therefore powerful force in Germany and beyond.  It grew into a centre where much of the Nazi propaganda was touted. 

For us, the experience was exhilarating, not due to the above obviously, but rather the view over Bavaria. It was majestic…at least it was when we finally got there, as there’s a ridiculous system currently in place. Usually, the Germans know how to run things efficiently and effectively. At the very least they manufacture excellent engines, inexpensive beer and great bratwurst. So we cannot understand why you have to queue so much just to be doubly handled…long boring story but suffice to say it was really dumb.

Hitler's shiny brass lift...the only way in

Perhaps I’m making a mountain out of a molehill, as the upside was watching the people in action. They actually dress like this! There are local shops that stock purely Bavarian styles. Apparently the men’s leather trousers help them in tree/maypole climbing (??) and the ladies skirts get shorter the higher the mountains you live. Go figure. Actually, I was tempted as I thought a Bavarian themed 45^th Bday Dress-up might be fun…stay tuned for 2016.

Annabelle was to come here the following day but visiting Eagles Nest with the boys, one in a VERY bad mood, was concerning. There were many areas where a false step could end in disaster, or at the very least, pain.  Like most, our family is multifaceted. We have a fast moving and capable German U Barn driver who gets us where we need to be in more ways than one; a slow moving creative thinking arty-farty type who hates to miss out; a currently absent teenager, often absent minded when present; a cautious, reflective and vocal Q&A enthusiast and finally a courageous and robustly independent mountain goat. And here, on the mountaintop, it was our goat that was in the mood! It was obvious a firm leash was required to survive the morning’s outing.

There were some great photo opportunities, like the rock overhang, the parachutes soaring about like Eagles over the Nest and oh, did I mention the view?

When the busses returned us, we viewed the bunker and history exhibit of Hitler’s reign and the many atrocities it involved. Here, during WWII, an enormous underground system for ‘the who’s who’ of the Nazi party was secretly built. It housed and protected Hitler, his lackeys and their families from the outside world and it’s consequences. However, American intelligence suspected the German’s were creating weapons of mass destruction (sounds familiar), so decided to bomb the area in any case. It was apparently because of this strike that the war finally drew to a close.

One thing I deeply respect about the German people (Eagles Nest debacle aside) is their commitment to truth telling, to living through and accepting ones history, be it victory or defeat, pride or penitence. They teach their children about the Holocaust and regain their honour through accepting responsibility of these atrocities. So, lets all go buy a BMW, Merc or at least some bratwurst!

We occasionally found ourselves across the boarder in Salzburg with the aim of seeing our daughter perform. The only problem was that we had the days wrong and were a day behind…so we missed an afternoon of performances, were headed to the wrong venue in the evening before bumping into a fellow ‘shaddower’ who set us straight. Truth be known, we had had such a difficult day and the evening was set to be a very long event (without Annabelle performing!) we had a quick look in Salzburg’s beautiful theatre ???? before heading off for a feed, the country boarder then bed.  This was a bitter blow and we have our regrets but as grandma Nancy always used to say “Life’s full of disappointments”.

Salzburg, Austria itself had some beautiful buildings and some  very interesting children’s meals. The boys had an excursion to Madame Tussaud’s (or Madam Tuesday’s as Patrick called it) whilst I went to sing my heart out on The Sound of Music Tour.

Madam Tuesday’s held the attention of some more than others and Patrick looked like a natural posing with Freud and then his all time hero, Albert Einstein. I loved seeing the street Maria ‘Confidently’ danced down towards her new position at the Von Trapp’s chalet, the lake Maria and the children fell into dressed in play clothes, walking the steps of the church Maria and the Baron were wed in and, of course, posing in front of the glass rotunda feeling ‘16 going on 17’. If only they would let me in! Many years ago, an 81year old lady was apparently so excited to be the rotunda, she leapt up and danced around the benches until she toppled off and through the glass, uninjured and probably still euphoric. Since then, it has been unavailable to the public. Thanks very much grandma.

 I always wanted to be Lizel

The lake and rear of the Von Trapp's house

Yes, I really did dance

It seems the only people in the western world who don’t understand 'The Sound of Music' phenomenon are the Austrian’s themselves. Whilst they may know the story of Maria, the girl from the local nunnery who went to work for the Baron Trap and his seven motherless children (because this is all true) they haven’t seen the film, heard the soundtrack or made the pilgrimage, and whilst Edelweiss is their national flower, the famous song is a Hollywood creation.  Interestingly, once there was a question on Austria’s equivalent to “Who Want’s to be a Millionaire?” where they had to name the Austrian flower that has a song written about it. It was for an enormous sum of money, the contestant phoned a friend yet still managed to get the answer wrong.  They really do have no idea yet ‘The Sound of Music’ experience is the main reason, second only to the Austrians high brow offerings of classical recitals and concerts, that tourists flock in the millions to their country.

The main reason I wanted to stay in the Bavarian Alps as opposed to the city was the experience of fresh mountain air on our daily hike beside the multiple and easily discovered streams, no doubt a common site of the area. I think my imagination knows of a different Alps experience. The place  was busier than I expected and the language barrier was a small difficulty.  So to subdue my vocal need for the experience, we took a drive to a superb location.

Königssee, Germany’s deepest and cleanest lake was gloriously mirror like in the still morning reminding me of the kaleidoscopes of childhood. The protection laws governing this lake do not permit privately owned boats or windsurfers but the little vessels we journeyed on (council owned?) looked quaint upon the emerald water and our entertaining crew member even gave a trumpet duet (with himself) as his notes echoed back to us from the mountains. The employees here like collecting their tips, so I gave him one “Be good to your mother”. But really he was very good.

Kaleidoscopes

Graeme and the boys were committed to keeping their matriarch content so worked really hard to see her hiking by the streams of Bavaria. Well, the lake was beautiful, but I did hear there was a waterfall. So on we trekked, through the beautifully shaded tree lined tracks, across the open and dusty fields, along dry rubble strewn river beds, all the time hoping this waterfall would show itself. It was reminiscent of our “Around Australia Adventure in 2011” when little 5 year old Daniel was stomping his little legs through Amelia Gorge, El Questro muttering “This is so, so, SO DUMB!”

So it was with great relief, in the middle of this hot Summer adventure, when we rounded a bend and found our oasis…a trickling brook set amidst moss covered boulders offering the freshest alpine water I have ever filled a canteen with. Heaven! It was so lovely to sit with our feet submerged and let the intensity of the hike in the heat slide away. The quote of the day was made here where Patrick proclaimed "Well, I've never had an experience like this before!" And although the actual waterfall was within sight, it was a longer journey for another day...for another family. This one’s mother was happy.

Leading the horse to water

An added cool down from Dad

We had planned to swim in these waterways but were slightly concerned at the lack of local bathers. You don’t want to be one of those disrespecting tourists…or ones who get bitten by a deadly beastie! Yet on out return, the edge of the lake was dotted with scantily clad individuals cooling themselves in the clean, crisp Köngssee. It really was as good as it looks! Apparently the lake was at it's maximum for Summer thus far but it was still certainly brisk! The boys tried their hand at a spot of fishing, tribal style and we ate our pre-packed lunch in the shade of a local dairy shed (come tavern) where folks sipped beer and ate smoked trout caught from the very same lake we were enjoying.

The next day saw us up amongst the mountains with the assistance of a pre WWII chairlift that Graeme was keen to try. Trusting cables were tried and true we handed ourselves over to the German’s who elevated us to 1600m where we extended this height by 88m on foot. The kids borrowed some hiking poles to assist with the meek journey but they ended up being more of a hindrance than help. Although I searched and searched, the local Edelweiss

proved elusive. Probably just as well because I later discovered it’s an offence pick it. Oops!

Cesky Krumlov and Hallstatt - Czech Republic

Cesky Krumlov is a UNESCO listed town that the CSHS Music Tour passed through on route to Salzburg. We decided to do the same but to dip our feet for a moment or two and stay overnight.  I think our memories of this area will always be around cobbled streets, the waterways and our accommodation…it was PLUSH!

Pano of Boy's Wing complete with gadget time-and The Simpsons in Czech!

The old town consists of a fortified castle (complete with a pair of bears who inhabit the dry moat bed) and a very quaint village. There are pedestrian only areas and streets where traffic runs in a certain direction depending on the time of day. We probably broke some rules as we still don’t understand them. 

The boys threw rocks at the water then decided on a dip, followed closely by the adults after a mandatory beer garden stop. It doesn’t look much close up but the river was a bit like swimming in the Swan, without the rubbish and jellyfish. Very refreshing.

After pounding the pavement with the usual gelato or two, Daniel’s desire to finally spend his Krona was granted by Graeme. Now we just have to find space in his bag for the Crusader Knight. Money burns holes in this kid's pockets. We hoped he would have learned about delayed gratification by now but it's just not to be. We love him dearly but lets hope he manages to scrape a deposit together in the next decade or so so he's not still living at home age 35!

Speaking of age and time, Graeme and the boys are being extremely patient with their photography obsessed tour group member. I am always given the time I need so as not to feel rushed, which I hate. It is a great gift they are giving me as this is my creative outlet whilst traveling, and we all know the old saying "Happy wife, happy life". Although this is the usual site I find on my return, so maybe I'm really the only happy one?

Whilst the boys shopped, I took to another flight of stairs and headed up the tower. The view was fantastic and I could see the family walking below, but alas my voice is so demure they couldn't (or wouldn't!) hear me. It was especially fabulous as it was nearly closing time and I had nobody to pay for the right of access. Brilliant! However, this nearly saw me undone on my retreat as a fortified departure carousel, requiring a ticket, barred me from the outside world. I heard the voice of my father in my head “Do you have money? Make sure you buy a ticket”…this was always regarding train travel (a story for another time, but it seemed to fit). 

Luckily, the podgy gate-keeper, who had previously asked if I intended to descend the tower or stay overnight, turned a blind eye on reaching the base of the tower and used his ID to set me free. I guess he’d had a long day already and climbing those stairs really takes it out of you! 

I decided not to share this tale of law breaking with the kids. Patrick would be very disapproving and Daniel would begin looking for similar opportunities for dishonesty as there seemed to be no negative consequences!

Ask a selfie enthusiast and what do you get? A damn pole!

Beautiful view over the old town from my solo, semi illegal tower expedition

Little bear cubs with their Mama

Dinner (with great strudel) by the water with castle views

Hee hee hee!

Remember the Brownes add...undies or swimmers?

Family fun walking home

Now where oh where is the car?

Hallstatt is a place I have longed to visit ever since beginning research for our overseas adventure. Oh, the joy of Pintrest!  It is a little old village perched right on top of a beautiful lake, literaly dangling it’s toes in the Hallstatt Lake. My photos do not do it justice and I am tempted to upload some that will. Many show it’s beauty, unsurpassed at daybreak without a breath of wind. Yet, as this was not my actual experience, is it a lie if I bend my reality? I know what George Costanza would inform me “A Lie is not a lie, if you believe it!”

Not quite as beautiful as I have in my head - Hallstatt

Apart from tourism (yes there were some Selfie Stickers) the Salt Mine of Hallstatt has been the main source of income for seven thousand years. ‘Christina’ mine, hand dug 7000 years ago, is reached by a very high (and extremely hot!!) funicular trip up the side of a mountain. In contrast, a long, dark, damp mine shaft awaited us to press us 400 meters inside the mountain’s surface where we felt the relief from the toasty summer’s day. The miners slide, polished smooth by gazzillions of bottoms, sped us further down and deep, where we were told of the history of salt, mining and a poor young miner who once fell to his death here only to be discovered hundreds of years later, fully preserved by the salty environment! No doubt the fellow was messing around with his mates and, as we constantly tell our kids, every action has a consequence (unless, as we discovered previously, you are Mum). 

'Sauna' Funicular ride to the top

The crazy Czech who points the way to the mine

The boys and Christina

We are to be salt and light

Weeeeeeeee...down the miners slide

Also preserved and recently discovered is Europe’s (and possibly the world’s) oldest staircase. It dates back to the Bronze age. It has been carefully removed from where it was uncovered, now sitting pride of place in the visitor’s info theater where, after much build up, it is revealed at the very end of the presentation, to much ooh-ing and ahh-ing.  I must admit I was quite taken by it.

Did I mention our attractive suits?

Too much FUN!